Sunday, July 19, 2009

Flesh For Lulu

Projected Flesh for Lulu (5.12a/b) at Rumney all day today. I was so psyched (and desperate) to get on it, I just showed up and projected it with random people. I had one good burn on TR where I almost got to the top and fell doing one of the last hard moves. Leading was harder though...I think the clipping is really pumping me out. Rachel showed up and TRed it really cleanly which was pretty impressive. She matched the crux hold, probably using her tiny little fingers, something I was completely unable to do. I did crimp the crux hold really hard. So hard, in fact, I have a huge blood blister there now. But I'm still super, super psyched. I was really stuck in the 11s there for a while, but now I feel like a bunch of easier 12s are within my reach! I just need a little more endurance!

[editorial note: I added some "quick reaction buttons:" yay! or nay! ?]

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